1. Take 95 all the way down to 4 and then take 4 all the way across the state.

2. Jump on to 301 at the top of the state and take that diagonally across the state.

My GPS says both routes would take the same amount of time. It seems like 301 might be more direct, but I am not as familiar with it in Florida. As this will be the last few hours of a long trip, I don’t want to get stuck on local roads with lights and speed traps. But I am not sure if it is that kind of road or if it is a highway. On the other hand if it really would not be any quicker and 4 is all highway, I might just stay on 95. We will probably be on 4 around noon on saturday and I am not sure of the traffic situation there around Disney either.

Hopefully either some well seasoned travellers down to the area or locals can help with some advice.

Hwy 301 is a smaller 4-lane highway. You will have to deal with slowing down through any towns you pass through because there will be stop lights. The Interstates will be a direct trip through. It will take less time because of that.

Does such a wonder exist?

Kodak.
I don’t know?

SOLUTION FOR NEUTRINO PARADOX
With the recent experiment conducted at CERN, we are about to ensure that the speed of the neutrino is greater than that of light, which apparently contradicts radically the current theoretical framework based on the Lorentz factor, conceptualized by Einstein for Special Theory of Relativity.

But I propose a universal Lorentz factor, where the denominator of the square root is not C (speed of light), but U (variable universal), but of course, the observer would perceive A and B particles U electromagnetic waves or photons not speed C (such as radars, cameras, the human eye, interferometers etc.), but it would have devices that capture particles or, in the case of neutrinos, neutrino detectors would. And if in these conditions we make the Michelson-Morley experiment, then the neutrino velocityconstant would be independent from the inertial observer’s perspective it would no longer constant C for observers in mind that the speed according to the neutrino experiments at CERN travel faster than light, thus, when we calculate the Lorentz factor with C Superior speed, we are not dealing with an imaginary number, if not a positive root, since the speed of the particle would not be greater than the speed of neutrino. ( IN THIS HYPOTHETICAL EXPERIMENT INFORMATION TRAVEL WITH PHOTONS, NOT WITH LIGHT)

Relativistic implications of this approach are of great importance since the variation of time, mass and space dropped by Lorentz transformations would have no way limited to the speed of light but that of the neutrino in this case.

The answer I propose in this brief article is so simple that has been expressed in two paragraph’s, but its implications are very important in these times when the scientific community found no answer to the new discovery of the neutrino velocity.
The Castilian video has received over 5000 visits, called NEUTRINOS VERSUS LUZ, EINSTEIN NO SE EQUIVOCO

Here is what physicists say about superluminal neutrinos:
http://arxiv.org/abs/1111.3888
http://arxiv.org/abs/1111.1574
http://arxiv.org/abs/1111.0785
http://arxiv.org/abs/1111.0093
http://arxiv.org/abs/1110.6697
… and about 100 more

With this as the first, that started it all (updated to recent).
http://arxiv.org/abs/1109.4897v2

The issue wasn’t that they didn’t know they were stalling. The stall warning alert was sounding the whole time.
The problem was that under normal conditions the computer in the aircraft won’t let you stall and so it’s safe to ignore that warning and keep pulling back. Due to the airspeed indicator freezing in the storm the computer safeties had disabled and so it was possible to stall. This is something the pilots should have known but seem to have forgotten.

The broken airspeed indicator didn’t cause the crash. Pilot error caused it, they didn’t understand or allow for how the flight controls on their aircraft functioned under non-standard conditions.

and if you know about these can you tell me what they affect when adjusted;
ISO speed
Shutter speed
aperture value
lens (bigger-smaller)
focal length
exposure compensation

and can you tell the quality of a camera’s image based on the quality of the camera’s video. like if the camera has 720p vids or 1080p vids will the picture quality be somewhat close to that sort of quality scale?
where do i see the resolution specs? i mean i don’t usually see the resolution specs listed anywhere when i look up cameras. sorry i don’t know anything about cameras. by the way i am in the category of using intermediate to advanced digital camera types (point and shoot type). not into the dSLR/SLR camera types. more of around $400 price range cameras.

anyone have a link i can learn how cameras work
oh i just seen that resolution is megapixels. i only print 4×6s so high megapixels is not needed for me. i am only looking for point and shoot cameras (ones that don’t change lens). sorry for the confusion.
thank you so much Jens for the help. best help received yet from yahoo answers.
one thing. i am just an average point and shoot camera guy. i have a few 12mp cameras, a olympus, sony and nikon. i was wondering why my pictures still come out not so good. what you said about too little light on high mp cams made a llot of sense i didn’t know. i only print 4×6s so what mp camera is more appropriate? you have any more recommendations on great point and shoot cameras under $250?
keerok i am only looking into point and shoot cameras that take great quality pictures under $250. i am not a photographer, just an average user. so i am not expecting high professional photos, just the best i can get in my range. is that so hard to ask for? i understand that the camera is just a tool. maybe you could kindly offer some knowledge/link so i can learn how to properly use a camera. but like you said no camera is made the same. thanks for the suggestions and answer btw
the camera is a tool, i know. so any Helpful information like a guide/tutorial that shows one how to use a camera properly?
will a 1/1.7" image sensor at ISO 12,800 produce a noisy pic?
what about a 1/2.3" image sensor at ISO 3,200?
just say they both are at f/2.6 with whatever speed. picture examples would be nice.
thank you all again. and thank you Jens for checking back. appreciate the help very much. thank you.

Megapixels merely determine the image size. A full HD tv or computer screen can only display 2MP (yes, two MP), anything more is wasted on it. 6MP are sufficient for poster sized prints, and 10MP are good enough for nearly anything.

More MP than that can actually be detrimental to image quality, especially in point and shoot cameras. The reason is that the more MP a sensor has, the smaller the individual pixels on it are. The smaller the pixels are, the less light each of them catches. The less light a pixel catches, the less accurate will its measurement of that light be. That’s bad for image quality. This is why cameras with lots of MP usually perform especially bad in low light situations, where each pixel has to work with particularly little light.
The current best camera for professional sports photographers, the $5300 Nikon D3s, has 12MP by the way. If they can do with 12MP, what does Joe Average need more for?

In case of vide 720p and 1080p only determines the resolution. If the video actually will be that sharp or blurry is an entirely different question. The resolution of the photo or video merely catches wthe image that is projected onto the sensor by the lens. A bad lens will project a bad, blurry image, and then increasing the resolution of the sensor won’t help at improving that anymore at all. All you will get is a bigger blurry image then instead of a smaller one.

There aren’t really any numbers that directly tell you how good a lens will be, but some can give you a good idea about it.

First off, bigger zoom ranges usually are detrimental to image quality. That’s because good quality lenses with big zoom ranges are more difficult to make. So at equal price, the lens with the smaller zoom range most often offers superior image quality. On DSLRs, many people use prime lenses, which don’t even zoom at all, for uncompromising image quality.

The second indicator is the aperture size. That’s the f-number behind the focal length number of a lens. E.g. 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6
Here small numbers indicate good quality. f/3.5-5.6 is a rather poor value. High quality DSLR zooms have f/2.8, prime lenses can even get f/1.8 or f/1.4
Among point and shoot cameras the values can differ. The high quality Canon S95 has f/2-4.9, which is a very good value for a point and shoot.
Basically these numbers say how wide the aperture can open (lower number means wider opening), and that determines how much light the camera can let in. This is crucial especially for low light performance, and also has a big effect on the ability to blur the background. Just google "aperture tutorial" for detailed information.

Edit:
Follow AWBoater’s recommendation, $280 for a P7000 is an awesome deal:
http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-Coolpix-P7000-Digital-Zoom-Nikkor/dp/B00427ZLRO

Myself, i use a S95 when i don’t bring my DSLR:
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-PowerShot-S95-Stabilized-3-0-Inch/dp/B003ZSHNGS/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1322578527&sr=1-2
It has a slightly better lens than the P7000 (f/2-4.9 vs f/2.8-5.6), but a smaller zoom range (3.8x vs 7x). I don’t mind the zoom range, but you might find it to be limiting. The main reason why i chose the S95 over a P7000 or Canon G12 (its direct competitor) is that i was looking for a really, really compact camera, as opposed to by big DSLR. A "big compact" such as the P7000 hence wasn’t what i was looking for, but other than that those are fine cameras.

Here is a sample shot that i took with my S95. Admittedly i post-processed it in Lightroom, but the P7000 should be capable of similar shots
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jens_wurm/5627655965/in/photostream

What I want:
Would rather a Canon
High ISO
Doesn’t need to be small/compact
Good zoom(My Nikon has 26x zoom & love that about it)
I’d like a fast shutter speed since many objects will be moving
Highest price I’ll go: $475

I don’t mind getting a used camera. I will most likely be buying this camera off of Ebay or Amazon so higher priced cameras will be cheaper if I buy a used one.

I am not worried about accessories because my birthday is in about 3 months, then Christmas is only 1 month after that so I will be getting a lot of money or I can just ask for the accessories. So the price doesn’t include all that kind of stuff.

canon sx230hs with 14x zoom & good lowlight photos for $299. otherwise just get a dslr with a large aperture and zoom lens which will set you back maybe $800. check out the canon s95 and nikon s9100/s8100 too