Cane toad cannon spread problems?
February 21st, 2010 | by admin |So I’ve been working on my own design lately because I wanna’ get into some shooting competitions with the rest of you who already have a head start on the rest of America in the next national pastime. Anyway, I’m trying out a shotgun type, basically my idea is to make a completely filled in circle on whatever I point it at. Total toad saturation is my desire for my target. How can I pattern them better? It seems that (I can see it on my high speed camera) the frogs flail their arms and thus, some get more drag and impact late and some spread wide. I would like a better pattern. Is there a online forum on patterning Cane Toad shotguns? Do you guys have any advice? I’ve tried doping them but they always end up having dopecrazed orgies inside the chamber and it’s disgusting. Ugh . . . Anyway, what kind of choke should I try? Should I lighten or heavy up the load? Right now I’m running about 37 toads a shot. Any help would be appreciated! I’m also working on a laser guided Cane Toad, but the technology hasn’t caught up to it yet. I’ll let you know when I can continue working on it!
I think the pre-pubescent idea is a great one. You have no idea how disgusting it is to scrape frog semen out of a mag tube. Ugh . . .
I’ll take your considerations in stride and cut the shot load down to 20 or so and re-pattern them. And oh yeah, I was up all night working on the laser guided explosive Cane Toad launcher. I think the correct formula was accomplished. I take a cheepo laser pointer and shove it in their mouth, then cram four oz. of blackpowder up their butt. I’ve got it down to 5 MOA at 200 yards which (considering the area affect) is pretty darn good! I’ve also been working on a frag model and a time detonation model. And if my ambitions hopes are fulfilled, I’ll eventually have a ICLGBCTM. (Inter Continental Laser Guided Ballistic CaneToad Missile) I’ll post the rough drafts and consept drawings for discussion when I get around to it. I need some help with the engineering/rocketry department. It IS after all rocket science! Wish me luck!
Well, I only have developed a belt fed crew served model… never have tried a "shotgun" model, (unless you count the numerous times I’ve packed five or six cane toads over a half pound of 777 ffg in an old hydraulic ram) but I have a feeling your current setup is almost right.
Your problem is the orgies. These problems I’ve run into with my own… they don’t stop moving, and whenever you tranquilize them they start going into these nasty little f**king contests. Gums up the magazine like you wouldn’t believe.
Now with yours, I think you should just go with pre-pubescent Cane Toads. Dope them up, and they’ll be less likely to donk each other… other than that I’d just use an I/C choke and be done with it. No sense in a full choke. Cane toads are irregularly shaped, so obtaining truly consistent patterns is nearly impossible.
37 cane toads is far too many. You’re lucky you haven’t blown the breech plug or chamber… yet. Bring it back down to 20 and you’ll be fine (I assume your barrel is AT LEAST 6.625” dia. right?). Cane toad shot columns should be set 4 square five deep.
In the meantime, I’m still loading 12ga. shotshell hulls with Cane Toadlings (just after they hatch from their eggs). These shells are like 00 buck on crack.
Take care, and good luck, Fellow Cane Toader
6 Responses to “Cane toad cannon spread problems?”
By eddieroachr on Feb 21, 2010 | Reply
oh hello,,, try 36 per round and cut there left leg off work here in east tn. lmao great ,,,,,,,,
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By Driven by Budweiser II on Feb 22, 2010 | Reply
Sounds like you have the right kind of cane toad, which is obviously known as the Newell or airsoft toad. The problem is how do you get the slime that they come out of to keep ruining your shot. 37 toads a shot sounds like a very good load, but try putting them in a burlap bag, and soaking them underwater for awhile. Just before they expire, load them, and shoot. Less arm flailing, better accuracy. Hope this helps
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By ERIC on Feb 22, 2010 | Reply
I would say that the dopecrazed orgies are the biggest patterning issue. These can not be prevented as long as you are using live cane toads. Then using dead cane toads kind of defeats the purpose, same goes for tranquilizing them. Besides these orgies keep them worked up and therefore more potent, so work with it.
The first two things that I would try are opening up the choke and backboring the chamber. This will allow them more room for their orgies, more room means not as packed and might pattern better. If they can have a little more room for their orgies they will start more spread out and should fly truer. If the orgies are tightly packed they stay together for the first few yards of the shot, creating many fliers and more drag from having more than 4-5 all "connected" at once.
If this doesn’t work then I would suggest trying fewer toads and a little more speed. Fewer toads means a less congested orgy and more speed might possibly tear the orgies apart a little sooner hopefully resulting in a more even pattern. Of course I would try reducing the payload before playing with the speed too much as by making drastic changes to multiple things at once makes the correct answer a bit harder to identify.
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By The Machinist on Feb 22, 2010 | Reply
Well, I only have developed a belt fed crew served model… never have tried a "shotgun" model, (unless you count the numerous times I’ve packed five or six cane toads over a half pound of 777 ffg in an old hydraulic ram) but I have a feeling your current setup is almost right.
Your problem is the orgies. These problems I’ve run into with my own… they don’t stop moving, and whenever you tranquilize them they start going into these nasty little f**king contests. Gums up the magazine like you wouldn’t believe.
Now with yours, I think you should just go with pre-pubescent Cane Toads. Dope them up, and they’ll be less likely to donk each other… other than that I’d just use an I/C choke and be done with it. No sense in a full choke. Cane toads are irregularly shaped, so obtaining truly consistent patterns is nearly impossible.
37 cane toads is far too many. You’re lucky you haven’t blown the breech plug or chamber… yet. Bring it back down to 20 and you’ll be fine (I assume your barrel is AT LEAST 6.625” dia. right?). Cane toad shot columns should be set 4 square five deep.
In the meantime, I’m still loading 12ga. shotshell hulls with Cane Toadlings (just after they hatch from their eggs). These shells are like 00 buck on crack.
Take care, and good luck, Fellow Cane Toader
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Avid shooter/Experienced Machinist/Cane Toad instigator.
By MJ on Feb 22, 2010 | Reply
Well, I can answer this.
You must band the toad’s legs and arms, to keep them from spreading or hanging out.
(This "cane toad panic position" can really play havoc with the aerodynamics and accuracy of your cane toad projectile.)
Males should always be separated from the females, or there will be a resulting corrosive, sticky mess in your barrel.
Also, males are smaller and wartier…resulting in additional aerodynamic losses.
So, you should use female cane toads for your serious shooting, and males when you are just plinking.
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By CURIOUS GEORGE Reloaded on Feb 22, 2010 | Reply
I want one of those, please tell me where I can buy them. I also want a Dillon Mini-Gun that has the capability to shoot 5,000 cane toads per minute.
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